How to Tie the Slip-D Rig
Every angler has that one rig they keep going back to – the one they trust when it really matters. For me, that rig is a simple quick-change presentation that I actually “borrowed” from my brother around seven or eight years ago after seeing the success he was having with it on the bank.
What first caught my attention was its pure simplicity. It was easy to tie, incredibly efficient and, most importantly, you didn’t need to constantly rebuild the whole rig after every fish. Thanks to its quick-change design, you can simply swap the hook and you’re ready to go again. Over time, it has become one of my most reliable presentations and something I now rarely head to the bank without.
In fact, since perfecting the finished version of this rig in 2025, it has accounted for 40 bites and 38 landed fish, including 10 carp over 30lb. The two I lost were in savage weedy conditions, so my confidence in the setup is through the roof.
Why This Rig Works So Well
There are a few reasons why this rig has become such a big part of my fishing.
Firstly, it’s very cost-effective. After a fish, if the hook point isn’t perfect, I simply change the hook. All the other components remain in place and ready to go again.
Secondly, it’s extremely versatile. With a couple of small tweaks, it can be fished in two slightly different ways:
-
As a balanced wafter presentation over clean spots
-
As a low-lying pop-up over slightly dirtier areas
This flexibility means I can adapt the rig to suit different lakebeds without needing to change my set-up.
That said, it took some trial and error to get everything exactly right. Early versions occasionally tangled, the hookbait sometimes slipped on the cast, and I experimented with several hook patterns before settling on the one that gave me the best hook-holds. After refining each component, I now feel I’ve got the finished article.
The Components I Use
Here’s the exact set-up that has been working for me:
-
Hooklink: Semi-stiff coated braid (15lb)
-
Hook: Size 6 wide gape
-
Hookbait attachment: Plastic bait screw
-
Kicker: Long line-aligner style kicker
-
Weighting: One No.1 shot or two No.3 shots
-
Hooklink length: Approximately 6–7 inches
-
End set-up: Lead-clip system (essential when fishing weed)
The semi-stiff coated braid gives the rig just enough rigidity to avoid tangles, while the stripped braid section allows the hook to move naturally and take hold properly.
I specifically use 15lb material because it’s stiff enough to reset well but still supple enough once the coating is stripped back.
How I Tie the Rig
The tying process is very straightforward:
-
Strip around four inches of coating from the hooklink material.
-
Tie a figure-of-eight loop roughly two inches long.
-
Pass the loop through the hook eye (front to back), similar to a multi rig.
-
Attach a plastic bait screw to the loop.
-
Straighten the hooklink by running it between your teeth and fingers to remove any coils.
-
Slide on a long line-aligner kicker, which helps the hook flip aggressively.
-
Add one No.1 shot or two No.3 shots to balance the rig.
-
Finish with a long anti-tangle sleeve and another figure-of-eight loop at the end.
The finished rig should be around 6–7 inches long.
Hook Choice and Hookholds
Some anglers might think a size 6 hook is a little small, but it has proven perfect for me. I’ve had to give some big carp serious pressure in thick weed and the hook has held firm nearly every time.
One of the reasons I prefer this size is because smaller hooks tend to be sharper straight out of the packet. I’m not someone who spends time sharpening hooks – as long as they’re checked regularly, a fresh hook is more than sharp enough.
The long line-aligner kicker is also crucial. It helps the hook turn aggressively and almost always finds a secure hold in the bottom lip, which is exactly what you want.
The Hookbait Set-Up
My go-to hookbait for this rig is a:
12mm Bug Corker pop-up soaked in Bug Amino Smoke
Once soaked, it becomes the perfect critically balanced wafter, sitting just above the hook while the hook itself lies flat on the lakebed.
This balance is key – it allows the rig to behave naturally while still ensuring the hook reacts instantly when a carp mouths the bait.
If I want to fish the rig as a low-lying pop-up, I simply switch the long line-aligner for a standard kicker so the bait sits slightly higher off the bottom.

Heavily glugged 12mm Bug Corker pop-ups with a bait screw become a wafter, which the carp can’t resist!
The Best Situations to Use This Rig
While the rig can be cast long distances without tangling, it performs best over clean lakebeds where everything can work exactly as intended.
My ideal spots include:
-
Hard clay areas
-
Firm silt
-
Clean gravel patches
-
Lightly polished spots
I tend to avoid heavy weedbeds with this presentation, although I always fish it with a lead clip system so I can drop the lead quickly if I hook a fish in weedy conditions.
Final Thoughts
This rig might look simple — and that’s exactly the point.
It’s easy to tie, highly reliable and incredibly efficient. The quick-change nature means you spend less time tying rigs and more time fishing, while the aggressive hooking mechanics ensure you convert more bites into fish on the bank.
Since refining the final version last year, it has become my go-to presentation whenever I’m fishing over a clean spot, and the results speak for themselves.
If you’re looking for a simple but deadly carp rig that performs at any range and delivers rock-solid hookholds, this is definitely one worth trying. 🎣






